Driving to Defiance, Ohio from just about anywhere is not a simple freeway trek. It's more like driving through a giant corn maze. Making the trek at this time of year the corn is so tall that you really don't see much. Except for corn.
Toledo, the closest large city, is an hour away. Detroit, the next closest, is a two hour drive. You get the idea. This city of 17,000 is an island in a sea of cornfields. If you're hoping for landscape variety you'll have to settle for fields of soybeans.
Fortunately, like a lot of small rural cities in America, there are still some hidden restaurant gems to discover. For big trips, restaurant research and discovery is a joint effort between me and my wife. When we're on the road she does the impromptu digging. She's become quite good at it. This trip was a perfect example. She found 95 year old Kissner's located in the heart of downtown Defiance.
What typically draws us in? A place with history is a plus. But it's usually the food choices first. Are they known for anything? Do they have any old school comfort food menu choices? A fried bologna sandwich at a diner Portsmouth recently drew her in. If they serve chicken livers she is sold. Kissner's serves gizzards, for example. Gizzards are hard to find on most menu's. Most folks would say there's a reason for that. But the clincher, on this day, was the veal cutlet sandwich.
Veal used to be widely accepted. Years ago I was a line cook at an Italian restaurant. We served Veal Piccata, Veal Marsala, and Veal Arrabiata. Of course, that was before it became politically incorrect to serve or eat veal. I'm guessing that Defiance, Ohio tends to eschew political correctness of that sort. And, when it comes to the chance to have a throw back veal cutlet sandwich, apparently so do we.
Upon entering we were pleasantly surprised by the space. Located on a corner in downtown Defiance the space was a legit throw back in decor. Pressed tin ceilings and pressed tin walls to the chair rails. Old steam radiators with ornate designs on iron. The steam pipes ran along the walls and into the banquet space upstairs. It looks as if this heating system is still in use.
But the real star is the antique bar. Running along the right side of the room it is the clear centerpiece. Rising nearly to the very high ceiling it is the kind of bar that doesn't get built anymore. Ornate detailing curls over large wide pillars that sit on top of antique cabinetry.
The counter has two levels. The first section is standard bar height with wood stools mounted on iron risers that are bolted to the floor. The second section is diner counter height with the same style stools set at the appropriate height. A wooden pie case sits on the bar filled with legit house made pies. Everything smacked of authenticity because it was authentic.
We were greeted and seated promptly. The place was bustling on this Saturday afternoon. There was a great car show in town right outside the front door. Not sure if it's always that busy on a Saturday or if it was due to the car show. But it's nice to see a 95 year old family restaurant, in a small town, have that vibe.
Choosing what to order was easy. We had a veal sandwich with chips and slaw and a Rueben with fries. We also ordered a slice of blueberry pie for good measure. I love pie and blueberry is my favorite. Hands down.
The veal sandwich came however you wanted it. Tomato slice? Extra 25 cents. Lettuce? 15 cents? Mayo? Not sure but basically however you wanted it. The sandwich arrived served on a standard bun. Breaded, and lightly browned, the cutlet was as delicious as hoped for. Veal might not be politically popular these days, but that sandwich didn't care. It was delicious. I could have eaten a few.
The slaw was made in house. It tasted clean and fresh. There was just enough shredded carrot and sauce to remind you of something your great aunt would have brought to the family reunion.
I ordered a Rueben because, well, I love Rueben's. Also, because I had a non-traditional one a week earlier in Pittsburgh so I wanted a great, diner style, Rueben. Shortly after we placed our order the server dropped off a little plastic soufflé cup full of thousand island dressing for my sandwich. Sauce on the side is not your traditional way of serving this great sandwich. But, when in Rome...or in Defiance...
The sandwich itself was solid. I applied the sauce myself. But frankly, and this is a small thing, I wish they had just put it on themselves. I don't like pulling apart a sandwich just to try to reassemble it. It loses something. There is structure to a sandwich when it comes out of the kitchen. It should be ready to eat. Not pulled apart first before consuming. Burgers and hotdogs being obvious exceptions. But frankly, they aren't constructed the same as a sandwich.
The fries were basic. Crinkle cut. Unremarkable. I'm guessing they're a 5/16 cut Simplot fry. If you know what that means, congratulations on spending a chunk of your life operating commercial kitchens. Kudos to you, my fellow kitchen war veteran. To be fair, it's not like they were touting their hand cut fries or anything.
The blueberry pie was excellent. Just like you expect in a place like this. I really love blueberry pie. So much so that one year my wife and kids made me one for my birthday instead of a cake. I would be happy to have that happen on every birthday.
I'm not sure who makes their pies. I should have asked. If they aren't fresh baked, then congratulations to Kissner's. They fooled me. But I would bet someone there is making their pies.
Kissner's is totally on the Food Road Less Traveled. Defiance is not a town you stop in as you barrel down the freeway. You have to go there on purpose. But, it is worth the time. Here is to another 95 years for Kissner's!!
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